Wednesday, January 18, 2012

uncle jay

this entry is for folks still here wondering what we'll do now and who will tell about it. 

if you know my uncle jay you don't need me to tell you what sort of man he has always been. after all, he worked for the gas company, wore that gray uniform more often than he didn't, as far as i could tell. when there was some sort of emergency- a tornado, a flood, an ice storm, men like my dad and my uncle jay would go to work in the dark and the cold and the wildness. i didn't know all my childhood that not every family had themselves a telephone company man, a bank man, a gas company man. i didn't know then that not every family had all their bases covered and that not every family had a man like my uncle jay.

he was the narrator of my childhood, the chronicler of my whole family's wild history. he kept every story he ever lived and ever heard all stacked up in his head and weekend afternoons he'd hand those stories over to the whole ridiculous lot of us, sitting in chairs and on my great-grandmother's low couch and on laps and on the floor, all of us piled in that one small front room of hers, listening to anything he'd feel like saying.

that room was never quiet. there were other voices all the time, his own brothers and sisters, voices echoing his in their raspiness and twang. and all the children and the grandchildren of those voices crowded in there, talking and laughing in little groups, eating sugar cookies and bread and butter pickles on crackers. but uncle jay would say well, the other day i run into this old boy, you remember him from the bowling alley... and all that other sound would dissolve into nothing. because even if we didn't remember him from the bowling alley, even if we didn't know the man at all, we could tell by the way uncle jay was laughing at where he was taking us that the old boy he was telling us about was in for a wild time. and so were we.

winters we'd be there with the woodstove puffing away in the kitchen and summers we'd be there, too. i'd lie in the floor with my cheek pressed against the cool back of a fat cement frog and my belly full of blackberries, listening to my own mother's childhood and before, to the time all those old folks were too young and living piled up in that little house where what they had was almost nothing or when they were striking out on their own looking for something different than life surrounded by lead mines. but somehow the way he'd tell it i'd wish i lived in a tiny house situated right up next to the tailing piles of a strip mine pit that didn't even have an indoor toilet. a house where black snakes managed to slither up kitchen sink pipes.

 it took me a long while to understand exactly how much grown folks suffer at funerals because even there my uncle jay was telling stories. and although we all knew it was unkind to speak ill of the dead, we knew jay would remember something for us, a story the person not there would blush to hear but had no way to prevent, being gone from us. he could bring that person a little closer, make the goneness seem not so far and make the hurt just almost bearable, by telling a little bit of someone's foolishness.

in a day or so all the people i love most will stand together without his stories to hold them up and i will be here where they are not. but i can tell you right now that he is in my head every time i open my mouth. every day i stand in front of a ridiculous pile of teenagers and talk, trusting i'll be able to say something important while pretending to tell just a funny little story. so, the other day i run into this old boy, you remember him from the bowling alley... and they do remember him. or at least they want to. they listen because they hear in me an imperfect version of his own gift. i learned enough to trick them, to get by. i am grateful for this. grateful to them for their patience and grateful to him for every story i heard him tell.

and i know when all the people i love most are standing there together it might feel for a little minute like he's gone too much. someone will need to speak up, talk about that gas company uniform of his and how he must have had five million of them or my aunt annalee would have been washing gray twill until all hours. if that's too scary at first, they can start with a story about something else they all have in common. every last one of us in that wild family of his, of mine, is related to a little girl who gave her cousin ex-lax pretending it was chocolate, knowing all he had to spend his suffering time in was an outhouse. we are all related to a boy who ate the tops of chicken shits. only the white parts, momma! he'd yell when he'd get caught. they're his stories but he's given them to us because they are our stories, too. we won't be as good at telling them. we won't be him. but we are his and we should keep that in mind.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

economy drumsticks

for the first day of the new year, an old secret

the smell of old books and a woodstove is about all we need, the sweetie and me, to lure us in. if there is snow outside and an old dog inside and the guy behind the counter talks to us about the books we're holding like they are men he knew and lost during the war, we will stay forever, sniffing the smells of stories and maps and photos of people dead fifty years. we buy little pieces of all that other time and as a result we live surrounded by shelves and stacks of a past that's always whispering to us. little bits of phrases will fall from a page and drag whole wars or explorations or sufferings right up into our hands.

a dollar buys me a ten cent magazine from january of 1941 called the cook's digest. subtitled "of all that is good". and indeed, this is exactly what is inside. there are too many wonderful things to look at all at once, but i will tell you there are recipes, two to a page, set up so you can cut them out and keep them, index card size, in your recipe box. in the middle of all this, on two facing pages, sit menus for a week's worth of luncheons and dinners.

the sweetie sits on the couch this first day of the year, reading over the menus, looking for something worth trying. it is saturday's dinner menu he comes back to in the end. the one that starts with pineapple juice. the sides are tomato spanish rice and baked bananas with marshmallows. i am on board for this right away. dessert is an orange chiffon pie, made up of jello and eggs and misery, but i will count my bananas as dessert if i must. there is coffee to be served with the pie but it is the entree that the sweetie can't quite figure out. economy drumsticks. recipe 58. at first we figure they're drumsticks you'd buy in an economy bag, hundreds of bumpy legs, but folks didn't buy and sell chicken in parts back before the war. it is the tail end of the great depression and just a year before pearl harbor so we know economy drumsticks will be curious. the sweetie turns to recipe 58.

economy drumsticks 
this recipe serves 4

                       8 strips american cheese (2 oz.)               1 1/2 tsp. grated onion
                       1/2 lb. twice-ground beef                         1 1/4 tsp. salt
                       1/2 lb. twice-ground pork                         few grains pepper
                       1/2 cup pet milk                                       1/3 cup pet milk
                       2 1/2 tbsp. fine cornflake crumbs             uncooked macaroni

cut american cheese into strips 1/4 x 1/4 x 2 1/2 inches long. mix together beef, pork, pet milk, corn flake crumbs, grated onion, salt and pepper. when thoroughly mixed, divide into 8 portions. with wet fingers shape into oblongs the shape of a drumstick, placing a stick of cheese in the center of each and taking care to cover the cheese with meat. dip, one at a time, in pet milk. as each "drumstick" is dipped in milk roll it at once in fine corn flake crumbs. brown slowly on all sides in 1/4 inch hot fat. drain on unglazed paper. insert in ends of "drumsticks" pieces of uncooked macaroni, 3 inches long. garnish the ends of the macaroni with paper frills, if desired.
                                                                                          courtesy of the pet milk company

there is a recipe for chipped beef on toast. souffles of chicken and turkey calling for piles and piles of stale bread crumbs. canned lunch meat with a can of cranberry sauce and corn syrup. casseroles full of crackers and canned cream soups. there is cabbage everywhere, recipes designed around stale breads and crackers. this is the food of poverty. the food of rationing and saving and using everything, passed down to those in less dire straits as comfort food. the food of family.

this morning we have bear sausage for breakfast and i know how much a mocha costs. there is saffron cheese in the fridge and the bourbon on the shelf ferments in cypress tanks and grows up in charred oak barrels. but i know who i am and where i came from, a home with chipped beef on toast. the sweetie knows who he is, too. we are looking for gluten-free corn flakes. the gluten-free macaroni is already in the cupboard.